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NEW IN TOWN

V.I.C.E. - Could V.I.C.E. become your vice? Opening on the Randolph Street restaurant row, it’s calling itself “an amuse bouche boutique,” with all dishes bite-sized. The chef comes from the four-star Everest. Entrees: $15 - $38

V.I.C.E.
840 West Randolph St.
(312) 733-3379

David Burke's Primehouse - This steakhouse isn't that new, but its "207L Pre Fixe Lunch" (spelled that way on the menu) is. Three courses for $20 fit into a lunch hour. Entrees: $35 - $45

The James Hotel
616 North Rush St.
(312)660-6000
www.davidburke.com

A classic favorite in downtown Chicago is spacious Carmichael's Chicago Steak House, where Chicago's nostalgia mixes with choice cut steaks. Options range from Angus Beef bone-in 20-oz. ribeyes to the Provimi green-peppercorn veal chop, with a supporting cast of garlic mashed potatoes and apple pie baked in a paper bag. In the summer, everyone moves outdoors to the garden with its charming gazebo. The lunch menu's less pricey and the place is generally more packed, but the steaks seasoned with the catchy "add-a-crust" selection are worth the extra spread.

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, with chef Kevin Hickey at the helm, features formal elegance and fare at its finest. Once named the second best hotel dining room in the world, the restaurant is like a chandelier-lit dining room in a darkly-wooded fine Euro castle, but the food is focused on the best midwest, as well as culinary ingredients from the world over: a Beluga caviar parfait over crab ceviche with blinis, for instance. Pear is paired with duck liver, sturgeon with parsnips, apple salad and red wine sauce. The options are almost endless, and the service as exquisite as the courses.

The Grill on the Alley is an upscale classic American establishment and Chicago's answer to the original Beverly Hills-based classic. Created from a chunk of the Hotel Westin's lobby, this clubby charmer is very civilized (the martinis are very dry). The ambience adds up to dark woods, ultra-private leather booths and the right menu for power brokers: grilled prime steaks, and a lush dessert called Brownie Pie with caramel sauce. Also have a go at the steak tartare appetizer for two and special tequila-marinated fried shrimp.

From South Miami to the Windy City no one serves the stone crabs better than Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab. Served in-season from October 15 through May 15, and with Joe Weiss's traditional mustard sauce they are truly exceptional. For starters, spinach stuffed mushrooms or shrimp and scallop ceviche do fine, or take out a "2nd mortgage" of seafood appetizers if you're really hungry. Then save plenty of room for the main course--it's weighty and a little pricy, but so satisfying.

Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab
60 East Grand St.
(312) 379-5637
www.icon.com/joes

At La Madia, they promise that the wine list is deep and it certainly is in this River North establishment, with 250-plus bottles to choose from in a contemporary setting. They also promise pizza that delivers and it does. You can relax here for a casual meal with house made fennel sausage, spinach and ham, and white clams and chili peppers among the toppings on delicious homemade pizza. Oven-roasted globe artichokes will do just fine as a starter as will the roasted jumbo asparagus wrapped in prosciutto di Parma with lemon infused oil. There’s a small dessert selection but it is unusual, and they are open for lunch as well.

Homesick for Paris? You'll revive with a visit to La Sardine. Lean back against a banquette in this long narrow room and contemplate the subtle lighting and semi-open kitchen in the sophisticated bistro owned by Jean Claude Poilevey; then dream of the lovely les escargots bourguignons or baked onion soup you've ordered as an appetizer. A salad might be composed of goat cheese or watercress, and your entree could be la bouillabaisse or le cassoulet Toulousain (white beans, duck confit, duck sausage and lamb). Fine French dining at surprisingly moderate prices.

Culinary artistry in Chicago's River North Galley District comes by way of mk, named for the chef/owner Michael Kornick. Kornick's longtime track record in creating fine contemporary cuisine has led to acclaim for such signature dishes as chilled Maine lobster with mango, leeks, English mustard, yellowfin tuna, seared with red wine syrup and garlic mashed new potatoes. The wine list is tops; desserts include creme brulee with vanilla custard, caramelized sugar and a hint of orange. Come for lunch: the people watching is exemplary and the tab a bit less pricey than at dinner.

Mirai Sushi is a cutting-edge "new world sushi" restaurant known for its 3-foot fish tanks located behind the sushi bar. When you're not staring at the live fluke, rockfish and lobster, you may order such starters as Sakana Carpaccio Moriwase, Ebi Motoyaki (grilled prawn and shiitake mushrooms), miso soup, seared duck, or Ise Ebi (lobster with fresh seaweed, lotus, and orange Tobiko). Post-dining is fabulous in this floor-to-ceiling glass house, with its icy blues and warm seagreens, climb the steps to the lounge to listen to the deejay and sip sake on the weekends or simply lounge out during the week.

In the trying-to-be-ultra-hot-and-mostly-making-it Bucktown neighborhood, MOD has notable elan and equally stylish, innovative food. Mirrored disks line the walls, skyblue chairs are egg-shaped and similar ovals adorn the bar; meanwhile, the menu creations are delicious. Take green beans (an appetizer): they're fried as crisply as onion rings, to dip into two unique soy sauces. The sun-dried tomato Caesar salad with parmagiano-reggiano is a winner; so is the free range roasted muscovy duck, with pancetta baked quince, wild rice, toasted almonds and honey broth, or the grilled double-cut pork chop, with corn, mascarpone "mac and cheese." Sublime. Prices are not too excessive for all this creativity.

On the seventh floor of the Park Hyatt Chicago, high above the Magnificent Mile, NoMI exults in spectacular views of the city's Water Tower (ask for a table such as #34 facing the windows that lean over the park). There's a wine room, sushi bar, outdoor terrace, fabulous artwork, and the chef's incredible creme of chicken and chestnut soup with tartlet of braised chestnuts, roasted Chilean sea bass and a flourless milk chocolate mousse cake with milk chocolate ice cream, among other delectables. NoMI was among an elite group honored by Wine Spectator with a Best of Award of Excellence in their prestigious 2003 Dining Guide.

Best for pre-theater dinner or lunch, Petterino’s has been a good choice since 2001 for a fast meal. Now, come after 7 p.m. to partake of the new nightly three-course prix-fixe dinner at a price that is really hard to beat—$19.95. You choose from seven firsts, seven entrees, seven desserts, and even seven wines (at an additional $7 each) for a bargain dinner. The menu includes classic beef and chicken dishes, including chicken parmagiano with house-made mozzarella, veal meatloaf and pot roast. Start with the Midwestern chowder, enjoy the wine chosen by the restaurant’s sommelier and sit back for the dessert choices.

A prairie-influenced panorama promotes a casual atmosphere that, combined with contemporary American cuisine, creates a truly Midwestern dining experience. The Prairie Grass Cafe, which opened back in October 2004, exemplifies the handiwork of Chef/Owners Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris previously established at the Ritz-Carlton's Dining Room. The cafe's seasonal menu changes monthly and offers a variety of signature dishes and homemade desserts. Choose from a flavorful starter that might include baked Feta cheese with spicy banana peppers and tomatoes, then for an entree, the Un-Traditional Shepherd's Pie with butternut squash, parsnip, and potato gratin over braised beef and swiss chard is a delectable, if unexpected treat. The family-friendly menu goes a step beyond the ordinary and features affordable entrees usually below $20. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Mondays.

Adjacent to the world's largest Polo store, the Chicago flagship on Michigan Avenue, RL Restaurant has a fashionable accent, exceptional service and is stylish enough to make Mr. Lauren very happy. Once comfortably enclosed within the navy blue walls accented by mahogany paneling, you can enjoy an excellent choice of wines while you dine on an appetizer like steamed mussels or baked camembert and then choose from among the exquisite entrees of American fare with a French twist.

A great many Spiaggia aficionados might argue that this Italian-flavored oasis has the best view in town; Lake Michigan lies beyond the massive windows of this luxurious and comfortable space. Spiaggia (which the Chicago Tribune deemed "the only 4-Star Italian in town"), accents a vast wine list and such menu highlights as potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms, pheasant-filled ravioli topped with Umbrian black truffles, suckling pig with quenelles of white polenta, and desserts such as the domed semifreddo of bittersweet chocolate and hazelnut gelato. In a town crowded with good Italian trattorie, however, it should be noted that most are more moderately priced than this beautiful restaurant.

The outstanding care that Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand have taken with their gorgeous TRU is evident in everything from the square glass butter pots to the waiters' trim black suits. Cosseted by silver silken drapes, you're sitting in a vast (but not icy) art gallery (note Warhol's lit oil on canvas "Marilyn"), the superior service rivaling such dishes as venison loin with celery root puree, risotto with truffles and lobster, and a "24k. chocolate Savarin" plate, graced with coconut ice cream, chocolate sauce and shaved chocolate. Have the three-course prix fixe, or a multi-course "collection," or just come in for the four-course dessert and champagne collection. Private parties are accommodated, even at the kitchen table with custom menus created by the chefs.

Charlie Trotter protege Michael Taus opened the first Zealous in a Chicago suburb; now he's winning raves in the city's River North neighborhood. Here, attentive servers in Donna Karan gray suits and ties glide about, serenely serving Taus' masterly dishes, largely American with Asian influences, and an international selection of 750 wines. Among the carefully crafted and creative options are three degustation menus; you can choose from three to seven courses: perhaps an appetizer of crispy polenta cake with escargot, smoked almonds, aragula, and roasted garlic mouseline. Or try an entree of maple syrup glazed black cod, Maine lobster wontons and yuzu ginger sauce. For dessert go with the deconstructed Black Forest cake or brown butter apple tart with Goldschlager ice cream.