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The British Virgin Islands


by Candyce H. Stapen

The British Virgin Islands If you're in search of a laid-back boating getaway where the snorkeling is fine and most of the time "dress for dinner" means putting on a clean T-shirt, then head to the British Virgin Islands. That's because within a radius of 80 nautical miles, the nation's more than 60 islands (counting small uninhabited cays) offer safe anchorage in hundreds of coves. In fact, pirates once headed to these secluded inlets to evade capture and to bury their booty on land.

Ever sing "Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum" on a long family car ride? Legend has it that the ditty was inspired by the BVI islet where the notorious Blackbeard marooned 15 of his fellow swashbucklers along with one sword and a single bottle of rum. Most likely your family outings will be more fun.

Tortola, the BVI's largest island, also sports the Caribbean's biggest boat rental fleet. If you know how to maneuver your own vessel, charter a bareboat and if you don't, book a multi-day sail with a captain and a crew. The Moorings, based in Tortola, offers both options. Either way you'll spend days with the breeze in your face, gliding through the glistening turquoise waters and anchoring offshore of sandy beaches where there are few others, or maybe no one else at all. After dining on deck, admire the stars as they pop and glow in a purple sky.

Yachties and beach lovers head to Jost Van Dyke (population 150), about a 30-minute ferry ride from Tortola. The Soggy Dollar Bar, named for the wet bills proffered by the sailors who wade ashore, packs them in for lunch. Kids like the sugar-soft sands and parents like swaying in one of the palm-tree shaded hammocks strung along the beach.

If you want to learn to sail, then the BVI is the place to be too. Even if you don't know your aft from your rudder, there's hope. Vacation at the Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda, and you and your children can morph from landlubbers to savvy sailors. One of the best places in the Caribbean for families to learn the sport, the Bitter End Yacht Club offers an extensive program of hands-on classes, year-round, (except when the rooms are closed from mid-August to mid-October). Sign up for family lessons or vacation during February break, Easter, Christmas, and Thanksgiving, when the Bitter End, in cooperation with Sail Caribbean, operates special kids' sailing camps for ages three to 12.

Use your newfound skills to sail to snorkel spots or go out on the resort's guided twice daily trips to nearby reefs where you can float among rainbow-colored schools of fish and glide by orange, rust and purple coral formations. Dive enthusiasts hover at the Rhone, one of the Caribbean's most famous shipwrecks.

Another popular BVI attraction: the Baths, located on Virgin Gorda. These giant boulders strewn by the shore require you to scramble over and squeeze through narrow spaces between the rock slabs in order to access the small beach whose calm, clear aquamarine water makes all the work worth it. Just be sure to visit in late afternoon when the cruise ship crowds have departed.

Without mega-resorts, the British Virgin Islands offers a slice of Caribbean life as it used to be when sailboats ruled and the next adventure was wherever the wind blows.

 

 
Great Places, Great Deals
 

-Florida: Amelia IslandAmelia Island Plantation: A sprawling resort with three-and-a-half miles of beach and 72 holes of golf offers an all-inclusive package that bundles lodging with three meals daily, unlimited golf on selected courses, children's programs, nature tours, and bicycle rentals. Through March 3, 2007 rates are from $235 per adult, per night for an oceanfront room with a two-night minimum. Children under 15 are $115 per night. From March 4, 2007 through November 3, 2007, rates start slightly higher and there is a five-night minimum (888-261-6161; www.aipfl.com).

-Grandtravel: Organized trips for grandparents and grandkids adds three spring break departures: an 11-day Galapagos Islands trip, March 29 to April 8; an eight-day Hawaiian package to Oahu, Maui and Lana'i, April 7 to 14; and an eight-day exploration of Greece, April 14 to 22. Special activities are offered for grandkids (800-247-7651; www.grandtrvl.com).

 

*****


– Candyce H. Stapen is the author of 27 books, including National Geographic Guide to Caribbean Family Vacations.




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