Memorable Guatemala
by Candyce H. Stapen
Forget about building your own thatch-roofed lean-to, swinging a
machete to cut a path to Lake Petén Itza, or suppressing your gag
reflex to chow down on grasshoppers. Only contestants on "Survivor
Guatemala" endure such made-up challenges in pursuit of a $1-million
prize.
For the rest of us, visiting Guatemala is much more fun and filled
with other rewards. The towering pyramids of ancient Tikal inspire
awe, the rain forest sings with the crescendo of howler monkeys,
the country's Maya villages prove that these people are far from
extinct and Lake Atitlan ranks among the world's most scenic lakes.
Unfortunately, heavy rains and an earthquake in October 2005 have
devastated Santiago Atitlan, a popular village with tourists, and
mudslides have isolated Panajachel, the gateway to Lake Atitlan.
Check with Guatemala Tourism before heading to these areas; however,
there is still much to see and experience in Guatemala.
A Guatemalan journey is best for families with grade-schoolers
and teens who like eco-adventures and learning about different cultures.
Climbing Tikal's temples, hiking the rain forest, joining a schoolyard
soccer game and bargaining for brightly woven backpacks at local
markets are experiences your kids will long remember.
Another reason to visit: Guatemala is moderately priced. Rooms
in top rated hotels in Guatemala City cost about $140 per night
while comfortable lodgings in small towns range from $70 to $120
per night, often with breakfast included.
After landing in Guatemala City, most people head to Antigua, the former
Colonial Capital, about a 45-minute drive away. One of Central America's
prettiest cities, Antigua has cobblestone streets, Colonial churches,
yellow, ochre and pink buildings, an inviting town square shaded
by African tulip and feathery jacaranda trees, as well as the tomb
of Central America's first saint, Hermano Pedro de San José de Betancourt
in the Iglesia de San Francisco.
None of this may excite your kids, but they will like the Museo
Casa del Tejido (the Textile Museum). Mannequins wear the colorful
shawls, huipiles (sleeveless tunics for women), headgear and pants
indicative of the various native regions. A weaver patiently demonstrates
how garments take shape on a backstrap loom. Kids also like browsing
for backpacks and necklaces in Antigua's market, a calm place to
hone bargaining skills before Chichicastenango, Guatemala's largest
native market.
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Great Places, Great Deals
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Miami area: Book the Family Fest package at Sonesta
Key Biscayne, and get deluxe accommodations, a
welcome gift, daily buffet breakfast for two adults
and two children, admission to the Miami Seaquarium,
one day bicycle rentals, and all-you-can-eat ice
cream for the kids. The package requires a three-night
minimum stay. Rates from $355, January 2, 2006
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Orlando:
Stay three nights at any of
Loews Universal Orlando hotels- Portofino Bay
Hotel, Hard Rock Hotel or Royal Pacific Resort-and
get the fourth night free, through January 31,
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Boston:
The Fairmont Copley's Twice as Nice Package comes
with a copy of Around Boston With Kids.
Rates start at $239 for the first night, but for
the second night, you pay your child's age in
dollars. Good through March 31, 2006 (800-441-1414;
www.fairmont.com).
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For more than 100 years, every Thursday and Sunday, Chichicastenango,
dubbed "Chichi" for short, blooms with nearly 300 Mayan vendors
from all parts of the country. Serious shoppers, including buyers
for some big department stores, flock to Chichi to purchase hand-woven
items such as floral wall hangings, embroidered tablecloths, area
rugs, placemats, throw pillows, leather belts and carry-on bags,
many of which you can see stateside for five to ten times the local
price. But Chichi's not for every shopper, only for those who get
an adrenaline rush from bargaining and elbowing through crowds.
Chichi is also important for locals. In the market, Maya women
sell live chickens out of burlap bags and measure out sackfuls of
black, white or yellow corn. On Sunday the cofradías, religious
brotherhoods, lead processions through the streets.
El Petén, in Guatemala's humid lowlands, is the site of the 21,000-square-kilometer
Maya Biosphere Reserve, home to Yaxhá, the ancient Maya city where
the "Survivor" cast toils, as well as Tikal, a larger and more well
known Mayan site. The trick to exploring any jungle is to arrive
by 7:30 a.m.--to avoid both the crowds and the heat. Also tote plenty
of water and stay on the well-trodden main paths.
Although the Maya populated Tikal in 200 B.C., many of the excavated
pyramids date to around 700 A.D., part of the Classic period. Despite
the many visitors, Tikal, a 222-square-mile park, still retains
a jungle-like feel. As you walk paths shaded by cedar, mahogany
and towering ceiba trees, you might see toucans flying, spider monkeys
jumping from limb to limb or hear the screeching of the howler monkeys.
Temples I and II anchor the Great Plaza, and Temple IV reigns as
Tikal's tallest at 230.98 feet. The reward for climbing the steep
wooden staircases of Temple IV, V and II-panoramic views of the
gray temple peaks rising from the thick, green forest canopy. Like
much in Guatemala, it's a memorable sight.
For information on Guatemala check out www.visitguatemala.com.
For information on Tikal click on www.parque-tikal.com.
– Candyce H. Stapen’s latest book
is National Geographic Guide to Caribbean Family Vacations.
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