John Sundstrom of Lark and Licorous in Seattle
Unless someone told you, you wouldn’t know it was there: a small-but-burgeoning garden tucked behind a simple wood-frame building in a not-quite-gentrified part of town. The garden flourishes with lettuces, herbs, and fennel—integral ingredients in the fresh, innovative cuisine that earned John Sundstrom the 2007 award for Best Chef/Pacific Northwest from the James Beard Foundation. Sundstrom showcases his talents at his two establishments on Seattle’s Capitol Hill: Lark, a 50-seat restaurant; and the neighboring Licorous, a lounge which serves chic cocktails-cum-eats. A graduate of New England Culinary Institute, Sundstrom’s worked his way up the food chain in Seattle at top restaurants including Campagne, Dahlia Lounge, and Earth & Ocean. He opened Lark in December 2003 with his partners: his wife, JM Enos, who handles wine selections; and Kelly Ronan, the manager.
CMEplanner: Why did you choose this simple neighborhood location for the restaurant—not some mini-chateau?
Sundstrom: The location really spoke to me—it’s my style of place, my aesthetic. I wanted somewhere where I could do great food with excellent quality and service. The space had been an old warehouse. I wanted people to get a sense of its soul. When we opened up the ceiling, you could see all the beautiful woodwork and beams. At one point it had been a bakery. And you can still see the words “Daily Bread” painted on the floor. It seems very symbolic to me.
CMEplanner: You have top-ranked restaurants but you keep prices low—at Lark, portions of wild striped bass or lamb loin cost only $18. Why is that?
Sundstrom: I want restaurants where people can come every week or month—not just special-occasion places where they might go every few years. So people can sample lots of different tastes we offer small dishes served family style—plates people can afford and pass back and forth to each other.
CMEplanner: What are some local ingredients you use in your recipes?
Sundstrom: The Puget Sound area used to be known for geoducks [pronounced gooey-duck]—large clams that can weigh three pounds. They had practically disappeared from restaurant menus. I’m excited to bring them back—I serve them in a ceviche. I apprenticed for four years with chef Yasuyuki Shigarami, so I’m classically trained in Japanese cuisine and sushi. I’m experimenting with serving raw fish in a non-Japanese context. I have hamachi crudo (raw yellowtail) on the menu, which I serve carpaccio-style with green olives and preserved lemons.
CMEplanner: How did you come up with the idea for Licorous, which pairs cocktails with appetizers?
Sundstrom: Lark takes reservations only for parties of six people or more, so we needed somewhere that others could relax while waiting for a table. But I wanted it to be a stand-alone place, not just to handle the overflow from Lark. Licorous is a good fit. It serves both infusion and classic-style cocktails such as a Negroni or ginger-infused vodka. The idea of food pairings really took off—we have a choice of small plates such as cured duck-leg salad and Thai-style tuna tartare. We found the name “Licorous” in a Middle English dictionary—it means “something that is tempting to the appetite.” Plus it also makes you think of liquors and liqueurs. Because Licorous stays open until 1 a.m., a lot of other Seattle restaurant staffers come in after work. It’s a great place to catch up on all the local food gossip.
CMEplanner: How did you come up with the idea for those foie-gras bon-bons at Licorous?
Sundstrom: Some chefs in Spain were playing around with the idea and I said “Let’s try it.” It’s a mousse of foie-gras with sherry and cognac formed into small balls. I freeze them and pull them out just minutes before serving, so there’s still a thin, cold crust.
CMEplanner: So... Is winning the James Beard Award like winning an Oscar?
Sundstrom: (Laughs) Well, it’s the closest I’ll ever come. When you’re nominated, you anticipate winning, but it still gives you a jolt when they call your name. What makes it extra special is that you’re being honored by your peers. I’ve gotten calls from chefs all over the country congratulating me.
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| SIGNATURE
DISH |
| Elk loin with spaetzle and foraged wild huckleberries, paired with Cayuse Cailloux Syrah 2004 |
Lark / Licorous
926 & 928 12th Ave.
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 323-5275
www.larkseattle.com
www.licorous.com
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