Gray Kunz of Café Gray in New York City
Born in Singapore and raised in Switzerland, 52-year-old chef Gray Kunz was trained in the techniques of classical French cuisine and worked in some of the most outstanding kitchens in Europe before moving to New York. Once here he opened the renowned Lespinasse in 1990 and earned four stars by the New York Times. In October 2004, Kunz returned to New York after a stint as an author, and opened Café Gray, his version of an Eastern European brasserie on the third floor of the Time Warner Center. It was here that CMEplanner.com caught up with him.
CMEplanner: We understand that some people are calling your cooking technique “Kunzian cuisine.” What does that mean?
Kunz: (Laughs) Well, it takes its base in French cooking and then has Asian spices. It is very unique. My goal is to surprise people with different flavors. I also change my menu according to seasonality using only the freshest of ingredients.
CMEplanner: What is the state of dining in NYC these days? Is there more pressure than ever to be the best?
Kunz: The competition in New York City is quite fierce these days. Everyone is so focused on the latest trend. But I refuse to do that. Every time I see a hot restaurant I remember that it can get cold. The idea is to be consistently good. If someone has a great hot dog stand and it is consistent, then it will last. I see a sushi restaurant on every corner these days, but there’s too many of them. Things will level off and only the really good ones will remain.
CMEplanner: What is the most important thing to do as a restaurant owner?
Kunz: I think you have to remember the needs of the customer at all times. Hospitality comes first even over food and beverage. If one person in the restaurant is extremely friendly, recognizes you by name, you will remember that. The human approach is especially important in these days when everyone is glued to the internet.
CMEplanner: In the past your top restaurants have always been in a hotel. What is the state of hotel dining these days?
Kunz: There’s been a change in the perception of hotel dining. They are not just for hotel guests any more but must also attract the person off the street. Opening a hotel restaurant has a lot to do with red tape, but hotels also have some of the most predominant spots in the best parts of the city. They are good places for a talented entrepreneur to get a start in the business.
CMEplanner: You have won nearly every award given in the food industry from Best Chef New York from the James Beard Foundation to being inducted into the Restaurant Hall of Fame in 1998 by the Culinary Institute of America. What award has meant most to you?
Kunz: Any recognition is so nice because it comes from hard work. But I must say being awarded four stars by the New York Times was probably my lifetime achievement. It was really the culmination of 25 years of work.
CMEplanner: You also won the CIA’s Master of Aesthetics, an award given to only a handful of culinary professionals. What does that mean exactly?
Kunz: It has to do with design, food, service, decor, even menu design. Anything that has to do with aesthetics is included.
CMEplanner: You have plans to expand your restaurant business in the near future. In fact you have a new operation opening in midtown in the early fall. How will you manage to run both restaurants and keep them at the same high level?
Kunz: First of all, they will be within walking distance of each other so I can come and go. The fact that I’m at both restaurants every night will be the most important thing and is one of my signatures. The new space will be more casual with a great bar lounge and a focus on high-end catered events. The bar will have deluxe finger food. Café Gray will remain my higher end restaurant. I’m also looking at other opportunities that may come my way too as my company expands.
CMEplanner: How has the transition from chef to chef/owner been?
Kunz: No problem. I am enjoying combing the business aspect with my love for food. I am just going to keep going and do what I love to do.
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| SIGNATURE
DISH |
| Braised short ribs in a mustard sauce served over soft grits, paired with 1996 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac, Bordeaux |
Cafe Gray
Time Warner Center
10 Columbus Circle, Third Fl.
New York, NY 10019
(212) 823-6338
www.cafegray.com
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