Chef Q&A with Chef Jose
Garces of Amada in Philadelphia.
At age 33, chef Jose Garces has made great strides.
Besides boasting a fluency in a variety of Latin languages, he has
thrived under the tutelage of Douglas Rodriguez, known in culinary
circles as the "godfather of Nuevo Latino" cuisine. Amada,
which opened in October 2005, is Garces' first restaurant, named
for his Ecuadorian grandmother, with plans for more in the future.
Its charms are extensive, from the rustic appeal of its charcuterie
bar, stimulating décor, vibrant open kitchen, live flamenco music,
and of course its culinary superiority.
CMEplanner: What makes Amada stand out in the Philadelphia
restaurant scene?
Garces: We serve traditional Spanish tapas with a modern flair,
especially when it comes to plating the food and presentation. About
20 to 30 percent of our menu goes beyond conventional tapas to create
more contemporary dishes. My goal is to use Spanish ingredients
and mold them into something new and exciting. We have an open kitchen,
which allows all of the kitchen staff to be very interactive with
our guests. I love seeing everyone's reactions as they receive their
food and enjoy their dining experience.
CMEplanner: What are your earliest cooking memories?
Garces:
Cooking with my grandmother and mother. They taught me traditional
Ecuadorian dishes. We eat a lot of rice, potatoes and meat-known
locally as "churrasco." Other national favorites include ceviche,
marinated seafood, corvine, sea bass, fritada, a sauté of roast
pork, corn, cheese, avocado, potatoes and plantains, humitas, cornmeal
tomalaes and locro-a cheese, avocado and potato soup. My grandmother's
love of fresh ingredients and the care she took in making all of
her favorite dishes is something I've incorporated into my own cooking.
CMEplanner: Who was your greatest culinary influence?
Garces:
Douglas Rodriguez, without question. I worked with him when I was
at Alma de Cuba, the first Latin restaurant I worked at here in
Philadelphia. He was the consulting chef, and I really think he
is the most influential Latin chef on the planet. Like me, he is
the son of immigrants, in his case, from Cuba. He grew up with the
sights, smells and tastes of Cuban/American cuisine and developed
a passion for food early on. I'd say he is largely responsible for
raising Latin cuisine to the status that it deserves.
CMEplanner: What excites
you about Spanish food?
Garces:
Sharing—I love the idea of people coming to Amada and being
able to try many different tastes and ingredients. More and more
American chefs are adding tapas to their menus, sometimes in the
form of authentic Spanish dishes, other times just by dedicating
a larger percentage of their menus to small plates, giving diners
a chance to taste more food and share the experience with friends.
I like what Penelope Casas says in her book "Tapas: The Little Dishes
of Spain," (Alfred A. Knopf, $18). She wrote: "To eat tapas-style
is to eat by whim, free from rules and schedules. It is meant for
those who wish to enjoy life to the fullest and who love to while
away time with friends." This freedom is at the heart of Spanish
cuisine.
CMEplanner: What dishes would you suggest to someone just trying tapas
for the first time?
Garces:
Tortilla Espanola—an egg, onion and potato omelet served
all over Spain. It's a versatile dish that can be eaten at breakfast,
later in the day as a tapa or as a light supper. I also recommend
any of the items from the a la plancha (grilled) section of the
menu, which include lamb chops, chicken brochettes, shrimp, wild
mushrooms and foie gras. And everyone should try pulpo Gallego,
octopus spiced with hot paprika, Galician style and grilled with
olive oil, another specialty of the house.
* * *
Gambas al Ajillo, or shrimp
with garlic, a Catalonia dish that is spiced with a dusting of paprika.
The sauce is great for dipping!
Amada
217 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(215) 625-2450
http://amadarestaurant.com
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