Q&A with Chef Vikram Sunderam
of Rasika in Washington, D.C
Indian food's been a popular if predictable staple
of D.C. dining for decades. The Bombay Club, D.C. restaurateur
Ashok Bajaj's long-standing Indian dining room, exudes a jewel-in-the-crown
British club ambiance, complete with potted palms, piano player,
and leather banquettes. The impeccable, but mild Indian food and
its location near the White House made Bombay Club a favorite
for the Clintons. In November, Ashok Bajaj and Chef Sunderam took
Indian dining in an entirely new direction, opening Rasika,
which means "flavors" in Sanskrit.
CMEplanner: Critics are calling Rasika "hip" and
"trendy." Why?
Sunderam: We've been labeled a "happening" place and that's good.
There's more of a casual atmosphere than at Bombay Club.
I call my food "progressive Indian cuisine." I use traditional cooking
methods, but I like whole, flavorsome foods-food that is healthy
but with an emphasis on flavors.
CMEplanner: What first interested you in becoming a chef?
Sunderam:
I actually never thought I'd be a chef. I assumed I'd go into medicine
or engineering. In 1985, during a school holiday, I went to work
in the kitchen at the Taj Mahal Hotel, Bombay, for a month, just
for something to do. I liked it. I had a few friends in the industry
and I'd work for them sometimes just to help them out.
CMEplanner: Before coming to D.C. you were the chef at London's
award-winning Bombay Brasserie. What were some of your accomplishments
there?
Sunderam:
I went to London and worked in the Bombay Brasserie for 14
years before coming to D.C. During my tenure, Bombay Brasserie
was successful. We did many promotions, some for Bollywood films.
I also created airline meals to be served on Jet Airways flights
from London to Bombay and also ready made Indian meals based on
my recipes for sale in supermarkets.
CMEplanner: Who were your
role models as a chef?
Sunderam:
My mentor at the Taj Mahal, Hemant Oberoi, was important. He tried
to introduce progressive Indian food. I learned from that experience
that people want good flavor.
CMEplanner: What made you decide to move to Washington, D.C.
Sunderam:
I knew Ashok Bajaj through the restaurant industry for more
than ten years. I met him in London when I worked at the Bombay
Brasserie and we'd become friends. Opening a new restaurant
in D.C. is exciting, and a good opportunity for me.
CMEplanner: How do you like
D.C.?
Sunderam:
To tell you the truth, I actually haven't seen much of the city.
I came here in November and with all the work of opening the restaurant,
I haven't had the time to play tourist. It's been very exciting
though. I'm hoping in spring to get out more and play tourist. The
weather, I think, will be better then too.
* * *
Palak chaat with crispy baby spinach, sweet yogurt, tamarind, and date chutney; Black cod with fresh dills, honey, star anise, red wine vinegar.
Rasika
633 D Street, NW
Washington, D.C. 20004
(202) 637-1222
www.rasikarestaurant.com
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