Q&A With Chef Eric Gonzalez of Cube in Montreal
This 36-year-old native of Juan-les-Pins on the French Riviera
received two Michelin stars when he was in his twenties for his
cooking at the elegant Clairfontaine Restaurant in Luxembourg
City. Schooled at the famous Culinary Institute in Nice, he was
eventually tapped by Eric Demarchelier, owner of the West Side Manhattan
restaurant Jean Lafitte to head up the kitchens there. New
York magazine restaurant reviewer Gael Greene called him "a
breeze from Provence."
From Jean Lafitte, he moved to Maxim's in New York
as executive chef and then on to Montreal. He is considered one
of the city's finest chefs. Among the guests at Gonzalez's recent
fall wedding in Montreal was his close friend Christophe Michalak,
head pastry chef at Alain Ducasse's three Michelin star restaurant
in the Hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris.
CMEplanner: What's the best and worst thing that's been
written about you as a chef?
Gonzalez: When I was executive chef at Maxim's in New York
City, the Times' Ruth Reichel wrote that I served the most
interesting food in town. The worst thing was when The (Montreal)
Gazette's restaurant reviewer wrote that it was sad to have
wonderful food served by a bad waiter.
CMEplanner: What's the best thing about living and working
in Montreal? What's the worst?
Gonzalez:
It's the availability of so much local product. That really guarantees
freshness when you're cooking and having to create new dishes. The
second best thing I've found is the kindness of Montrealers. I guess
the worst part of living here is the cold winter.
CMEplanner: How does your cuisine differ from what other
chefs are doing in Montreal?
Gonzalez:
I guess what really sets me apart is my food. Crucial to me is that
the presentation of the food is beautiful, there are wonderful smells,
and the tastes are different from what anyone else does.
CMEplanner: How would you
describe your experience at Cube?
Gonzalez:
Very interesting because the food and the interior design are related
to one another. Cube has a very contemporary design and what
clients see on the plate reflects that.
CMEplanner: What are some of the highlights of the menu?
Gonzalez:
The braised squab leg and pan seared foie gras seasoned with
citrus and fresh nuts, leek, dates and grapefruit. The salmon is
nice too. It's cooked to melt in your mouth and served with fennel
and confied tomatoes, pieces of lobster, truffle and purple basil
milk froth and a pepper shellfish sauce.
CMEplanner: What's your favorite junk food?
Gonzalez: French
fries.
CMEplanner: Montreal has traditionally had a reputation as a great food
city? Do you think that's true?
Gonzalez:
With my French roots, I think that gastronomically speaking, Montreal
is the Paris of Canada. The number of talented young chefs and really
top-level restaurants are amazing for a city of its size.
CMEplanner: What are the pressures of being honored with two Michelin
stars?
Gonzalez: You
and your restaurant have to be perfect every single day and give
all you can.
CMEplanner: What do you remember most about your experience working in
New York?
Gonzalez: It
was a wonderful experience. I learned a lot in terms of understanding
Americans. If I can, I will definitely go back.
CMEplanner: Do you also consider yourself an artist and a bit of a magician when it comes to your cuisine?
Gonzalez: In
the end, it's a very artistic job. You're constantly thinking about
creating a new dish. Then, when you're cooking à la minute in the
restaurant, the magician part really comes into it.
* * *
Farmed squab/foie gras consisting of a braised squab leg, pan seared foie gras with citrus and fresh nuts, leek, dates and grapefruit.
*Entrees: $32-$40
Restaurant Cube
355 rue McGill
Montreal QC, H2Y 2E8
Canada
(514) 876-2823
www.restaurantcube.com
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